Mönch north face
Winter · Ice & North faces
The Mönch north face via the Nollen
The Mönch north face via the Nollen route is one of the classic alpine tours in the Bernese Alps. It offers an impressive combination of rock climbing, ice passages and a magnificent panorama. The route leads over the striking Nollen, a steep ice step, and requires good technical skills and solid acclimatisation. The approach is from the Guggi hut up to the summit of the Mönch (4,107 m). It is considered demanding and offers a unique experience for experienced mountaineers seeking the challenge of a north face.
Itinerary
- Day 1
Our approach to the Guggi hut (2,795 m) begins in Grindelwald, from where we take the cog railway to Eigergletscher station. From there we climb a well-marked path into alpine terrain. The path leads us through moraines, boulder fields and partly exposed passages that require sure-footedness and a head for heights.
We reach the hut in about 2–3 hours, enjoying the impressive views of the surrounding glaciers and peaks along the way.
approx. 700 m ascent. - Day 2
Our ascent of the Mönch (4,107 m) via the Nollen route begins early in the morning at the Guggi hut. The climb first leads across the glacier, where we move well protected through crevasse zones. The route runs through the impressive north face and offers a varied mix of steep snow and ice fields and some rock sections.
The key section is the Nollen, a steep ice field that can be technically demanding depending on conditions. After this passage we continue up the upper ice flanks and finally reach the summit ridge. It leads us via an exciting climbing passage to the summit of the Mönch, where a breathtaking view of the Bernese Alps awaits us. The tour is demanding and requires experience with crampons, ice axe and rope as well as very good fitness.
approx. 1300 m ascent
The north face classic: the Nollen
The Mönch north face via the Nollen route is one of the classic alpine tours in the Bernese Alps. It offers an impressive combination of rock climbing, ice passages and a magnificent panorama. The route leads over the striking Nollen, a steep ice step, and requires good technical skills and solid acclimatisation. The approach is from the Guggi hut up to the summit of the Mönch (4,107 m). It is considered demanding and offers a unique experience for experienced mountaineers seeking the challenge of a north face.
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