PIZ BERNINA BIANCOGRAT AND PIZ PALÜ
Summer · Mountaineering
Highest 4000er of the Eastern Alps
The high-alpine tours on Piz Bernina and Piz Palü are among the most fascinating summit climbs in the Alps. Piz Bernina, at 4,049 metres the highest summit of the Eastern Alps, requires technical skill and experience on glaciers and rock. Piz Palü, also demanding, impresses with its striking appearance and difficult ascents. Both summits offer spectacular views and present mountaineers with great challenges.
Itinerary
- Day 1
Ascent through the stone pine forest to the Tschierva hut at 2574 m. Dinner and overnight stay.
- Day 2
From the Tschierva hut a via ferrata with rungs and steel cables leads to the Fuorcla Prievlusa at 3430 m. Then it comes: the most beautiful ridge in the Alps. The very narrow and exposed firn ridge leads to Piz Bianco (3995 m). Here the firn ridge turns into a rock ridge with sustained grade III climbing up to Piz Bernina (4049 m). Descent via the shorter but equally narrow Spalla ridge, directly on to the Italian Marco e Rosa hut (3597 m). Dinner and overnight stay.
- Day 3
Early in the morning we climb via the Bellavista terrace to the Bellavista saddle (3688 m). After a less demanding traverse of the ridge we reach the summit of Piz Palü (3901 m). The final descent via the east ridge takes us, after a short counter-ascent, to the Diavolezza cable car.
Piz Bernina and the Biancograt
Piz Bernina (4049 m) is familiar to every ambitious mountaineer and is the highest 4000er in the Eastern Alps. The ascent via the Biancograt is also one of the great classics of the entire Alps. The beautifully curved line of the firn ridge leads the climber to Piz Bianco (3995 m) and from there, via challenging climbing, to Piz Bernina!
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